Understanding the Origins and Mystique of Costume Jewelry

The wardrobe of the woman is not complete without jewelry. In these days of recession and rising prices, it is very difficult to obtain a reasonably priced piece of jewelry. Costume Jewelry is inexpensive, attractive and very often surpasses the original jewelry is luster and charm. Let us find out what makes them so special.

One can expect the best vintage costume jewelry from designers who formerly worked for famous jewelry houses from many parts of the world. These came to prominence during the beginning of the early 20^th century. The designers use stones and non-precious metals for fashioning their pieces. The range of items made is extensive just as in the case of original jewelry.

Classification of Jewelry in Basic Form

First, we have to categorize these adornments into those worn on the arms, various portions of the body or on the clothes. Thus, we have the following.

a)    Bracelets:  People wear these on the arms. They make these from metal, ceramic, glass or plastic.

b)   Earrings: These are rings or hangings made from decorative pieces of glass, ceramic, semiprecious or precious stones set in metal or plastic.

c)    Bangles:  People wear these around the wrists. They make them from glass or plastic.

d)   Pendants: These are attachments to the necklaces. They may have stones or beads made of glass and ceramic.

e)    Dress Clips or Fur Clips: These clips most often have a stone set in them. Their main function is to serve as securing devices for dresses and furs.

f)     Necklaces: These are chains made of gold, silver and plastic and worn around the neck. They may have stones set into them or have pendants attached.

g)    Pins or Brooches: Pins or brooches are also devices to secure the clothes. One can fashion them from precious metal or from ceramic and plastic.

h)   Charm bracelets: These are bracelets, which people wear for good luck. People wear them on special occasions, like festivals also.

i)     Rings: These are small circular objects made of metal or plastic. One can also have them made from material like Bakelite and ceramic. Normally, people wear them around their finger.

Evolution of Jewelry with Passage of Time

The costume jewelry evolved over time and different ages adopted different styles and used varied settings for their jewels.

1.    Art Nouveau and Art Deco Eras (1895-1935)

The costume jewelry took impetus around this time. This period lasted until the World War II and the Depression. Mass production set in and with the pieces became more geometric and symmetric in appearance. This mainly took place due to mass production. Bangle bracelets and large pendants were characteristic of this period.

2.    Georgian Era (pre-1837)

During this time, jewelers made inexpensive trinkets and fake jewelry from pieces of glass, nickel, silver and Lucite. The metals used were sterling silver and base metal since they had a unique luster.

3.    Retro Vintage (1930-1950)

During this period, there was trouble with mass production. Sophistication and elegance marked the pieces, which were mainly bows, flowers and pendants made from Bakelite, moonstones and plastics.

4.    Victorian-Edwardian Era (1948-1980)

After World War II, jewelry overall, became understated. The ornaments were large and bold. Rhinestones found more usage. The items made were bracelets, Christmas tree pins and poodle pins.

Material used for Making Jewelry

One attraction of costume jewelry is the limitless variety of colors and shades. This is possible because there is virtually no restriction on the kind of material that one may use. Choosing different settings for the same stone or material can alter the beauty of the jewel. Similarly, choosing commonplace material like glass or paste over gold or silver may result in wonderfully exquisite pieces.

1. Lucite: This material is heavier than plastic but one can mold or carve them easily. It also takes colors and people shape them to look like costly items.

2. Bakelite: Fire resistant and castable, Bakelite is light and finds use as bracelets, pins, rings and similar items of jewelry. It is inexpensive.

3. Copper:  Copper is very shiny and cheaper than gold or silver. It is also malleable and gives strength to gold jewelry. Copper chains and beads have been in use since historic times.

4. Enamel: It is a form of applying glass to the surface of metals. The metal can be gold, copper or bronze. The color of the enamel is due to the highly transparent glass surface adhering to the metal.

5. Glass: Glass has several classifications such as Riedel glass and recycled glass. Vintage glass collections often include pieces like drinking cups. Glass beads and gems include an extended range of colors because glass takes splendid colors.

6. Paste: Paste is flint glass with high refractive index cast into gems because they are colorful and transparent. This kind of jewelry has been in production since the days of the Romans.

7. Silver: Silver takes good shine; it forms the fantastic setting for colored stones.

8. Rhinestone: Used as imitation diamonds, people refer to these at times as Austrian Crystals. More than jewelry, people use them as decorative pieces on costumes.

9. Gold: This is one of the most precious metals known to man. It is highly malleable and finds use as the base for precious and semi-precious stones. Gold has several properties conducive to healthy living.

10. Crystal: Gorgeous crystals of garnet, apatite, labradorite and eudialyte adorn jewelry pieces like necklaces, pins, bracelets and earrings. These do not cost much and look very pretty.

11. Cabochon: This is a particular cut of stone. It may be fashioned from any stone, ceramic, wood or porcelain. People use it extensively in jewelry.

Becoming Familiar with Costume Jewelry Designers of Today

Changing needs and availability of material play a key role in determining the final form the jewelry takes. In addition, each designer adds his or her special touch that makes each piece unique. These designers changed the fashion field distinctively.

1)   Coro

2)   Miriam Haskell

3)   Weiss

4)   Kramer

5)   Hattie Carnegie

6)   Monet

7)   Hobe

8)   Ciner

9)   Napier

10) Kenneth Jay Lane

11) Eisenberg

12)Boucher

13) Juliana

14) Lisner

15) Trifari

16) Sherman

Lisner, who had most of their jewelry made by others such as Whiting & Davis were importing and distributing Schiaparelli jewelry in US until the 1930’s. Towards the 1950’s, their outlook modernized and the good abstract sensibility of their jewelry won hearts. Their ornamentation, which included leaves and fruits, captured the timeless spirit of the ages.

Coro existed in the same period, as did Trifari and Lisner. Their style was characteristic of the time yet subtly different from their competitors.

Trifari used a crown symbol over their T as a symbol. Most of their jewelry included this crown except for those pieces where space restriction prevented them from writing the entire crown symbol.